Khao Sok National Park:

January 26th, 2005 - January 29th, 2005

Greetings...

About midway through India Jess and I began to long for more activity and less touring... well, we finally got our wish when we arrived here at Khao Sok National Park on the southern peninsula of Thailand, about 100 km inland from the eastern coastal city of Surat Thani.

We arrived a few days ago via bus via truck via bus via boat from Ko Pha Ngan. The boat trip was nice and relaxing followed by a normal bus transfer to downtown Surat Thani but when we boarded the co-op taxi truck that's when the shenanigans began.

We were supposed to be driven by minibus to Khao Sok but somewhere along the Thai travel agency scam work, that all fell apart. We were dropped at one travel agency and "forced" to eat lunch. They then tried to book accommodation for us at Khao Sok but we declined.

After 1.5 hours we were taken on another co-op taxi truck and given new vouchers and dropped at another travel agency. Finally, we were put on a bus. Not THE minibus we were supposed to be on, but the public bus. All-in-all, the public bus was not bad; it wasn't too hot out and the ride was only 2.5 hours so we were fine. But it was a bit of a piss off being scammed like that - probably because it was the first time since India and we had forgotten the feeling!

The bus let us out on the side of the highway at the 109km marker and the driver was quite helpful and friendly with us. However, he did make me yell out "Khao Sok" to let him know the stop. It was funny.

We were swarmed by hostel / bungalow touts when we exited the bus. We were the only 'Farang' on the bus so everyone was eager for our business. Right away I saw the sign for Nung House, the place we had wanted, so we went with the girl with the sign and got a drive to the place (otherwise it would have been a nice 2km walk down the road with our packs checking places out).

At Nung House we selected the tree house room which was secluded from the rest - and also had a view of the dried up river. Prices are cheap here since there really isn't anyone around. It is weird being in a massive place and being the only two people. Even as we pass the other bungalow complexes, there are only a few tourists in sight.

We signed up for a 2 day / 1 night jungle trek / camping experience and left the next morning. We were guided by two local Thai's - Joe and Boi. Joe is 24 and Boi is 18. We headed inside the park gates and started upward along a simple trail. That lasted about an hour before we reached a visitor's centre. From there the jungle madness began!

We walked along narrow and steep jungle trails that seemed to only go up. We passed signs for several waterfalls and such. After a couple of hours we descended on our campsite. It was right on the river near to a waterfall.

The river was an inviting place for a swim considering the humidity in the jungle and our 3-4 hour trek. We swam in the cool, clear water (you could see the fish) before getting ready for lunch.

Lunch was interesting. Joe and Boi had hacked down a massive piece of bamboo and then split it open down the middle. It was filled with fruit (pineapple, watermelon, and mango). All of the food was served like this in bamboo. It was so neat. We also enjoyed steamed rice and chicken that had been packed before we left.

We spent the afternoon lazing around and enjoying the peace and quiet of the jungle; especially all the sounds. We saw chameleons and massive spiders and a few macaws along the way as well.

Dinner was marked with another jungle-like feast. They BBQ'd chicken over our fire and produced other Thai delicacies in bamboo as well. The rice was the most interesting. They took rice that had been soaked in water and wrapped them in big leaves. They then shoved the leaves into massive bamboo stems that were hollow and then sat the bamboo on the fire. This was how they steamed the rice. The chicken ended up tasting almost like a chicken jerky because it was dried and smoked. It was so good.

After dinner they boiled water using a massive piece of bamboo like a kettle. Then they poured it into cups they had made of bamboo for us and we drank coffee out of them.

Following dinner we went on a nighttime safari in the jungle. The paths were so narrow and rocky and dense jungle covered much of them so it was quite hard. We didn't make it very far before turning around and heading back to camp.

Speaking of camp, the tent we were given was so short! I'm 5'8" and had to sleep curled up in a ball. Our guides got to sleep outside in hammocks - I wish I had offered to trade.

In the morning our real adventure began. Following breakfast we walked along the river for a bit and then crossed it and started walking up the banks along a small waterfall. We continued up and up until we reached the base of a big waterfall. All the while, the climb getting harder and steeper. At some points we were basically free climbing up the sides of the waterfall. It was fun and scary at the same time - looking down was not an option.

After a couple of hours we reached a beautiful waterfall where we stopped for lunch. We were drenched in our clothes from the jungle heat so we took a swim to cool down. Just before lunch Joe showed me this fishing rod he had made and left there last time he was at the site. It was just a piece of bamboo with twine and a hook. We put some bait on the hook and put it in the water. Within seconds one of the many fish had bit the hook and I had caught myself a fish. Jess and I caught 3 more within 10 minutes and we had a little extra for lunch.

We climbed up this waterfall as well and continued up and up through the jungle. At some points the jungle got so dense that our guide was hacking down branches with his machete. Our legs kept burning on this crazy climb as the path was just wide enough to put one foot in front of the other.

Midway up this climb we came across the prize of the jungle the Rafflesia kerri meyer or Bua Phut as the Thai's call it and translates to Wild Lotus - it is the largest flower in the world an can reach 80cm in diameter. One of the ones we saw had yet to bloom while we saw a couple that had already died after blooming. These flowers only bloom for 5 days and do it between December and February each year. Then they die. While in bloom they stink of rotting meat - unfortunately we didn't see one in full bloom.

After a few more hours of uphill trekking through dense jungle we made it out of the park. We were picked up and taken back to Nung House totally exhausted. Both of us were cut, scraped, and bruised on various parts of our body. But, we had enjoyed the hardest trek of either of our lives and likely the most rewarding as well. The sounds, smells, and sights of the Thai jungle were amazing and I will not forget the heat and humidity despite being in the shade.

Today we are relaxing and recovering before taking a bus back to Surat Thani in the morning. We will then fly to the north of Thailand to Chiang Mai and spend 4 days before heading eastward to Laos.

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